Your Ultimate Guide to Coily Hair

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Does your coily hair frustrate you? Maintaining coily hair is challenging, but knowing the right tips and techniques will help you get luscious curls.

Understand more about your coily hair, and learn how to care for it, from having an ideal coily hair routine to using the right products for your strands. This ultimate coily hair guide will walk you through all you need to know to rock your coils.

What’s Coily Hair?

Coily hair, sometimes called kinky hair, refers to curly hair with a small ringlet, compact spiral, and zig-zag pattern. Thanks to its tight curls, it produces extra voluminous hair.

However, the coily hair type is extremely fragile since it doesn’t have enough cuticle layers to keep the strands from drying. Also, its curly pattern prevents the natural oils from traveling from the scalp to the strands. As a result, people with coily hair often have dry and spongy textures.

What’s the Difference Between Curly and Coily Hair?

Curly hair is an umbrella term for textured hair, but it still differs from coily hair. For one, curly hair features looser curls, while coily hair sports defined ringlets, fuller hair, and tighter, smaller strands.

Besides this, curly hair has S-shape curls, while coily hair looks like a Z-shape pattern. Finally, curly hair is less dry than coily hair since coiled strands receives less moisture in its cuticles. Despite these differences, many hair care products work well for these hair types.

Embracing the Diversity of Coily Hair Types

Coily hair, often celebrated for its unique texture and volume, is categorized under the Type 4 hair classification. This category is further divided into three distinct subtypes, each with its own characteristics and beauty.

4A Hair Type: The Spiraled Softness Type 4A hair is characterized by its small, bouncy, and dense S-shaped coils. These coils, resembling the size of a crochet needle, impart a fine texture and create ringlets that exude vibrancy and life. While being tightly coiled, this hair type often presents a thick and slightly dry texture, making moisture retention a key aspect of its care.

4B Hair Type: The Bold Z-Pattern Type 4B hair stands out with its distinct Z-shape pattern, marked by sharper angles and tighter coils than Type 4A. This hair type can range from thin to coarse in texture, offering a diverse tapestry that requires a tailored approach in care and styling. Its striking pattern not only makes it unique but also a canvas for creativity in hair styling.

4C Hair Type: The Tightest Coils Type 4C coily hair boasts the tightest coils of all, with strands that show the least definition in this category. This tightly coiled nature makes it particularly prone to breakage and may lead to slower hair growth. Embracing this hair type involves understanding its needs for gentle care, deep conditioning, and protective styling to enhance its natural beauty and strength.

Beyond Hair Types: Understanding Hair Needs While knowing your hair type is a valuable first step, it’s just as important to recognize that each head of hair has its unique needs. Many salons and hair care professionals now focus on addressing these specific needs, whether it’s hydration, strengthening, or protection, to ensure that each coily hair type not only looks its best but also maintains its health and vitality.

At Team True Beauty, we believe in celebrating the individuality of each hair type, understanding its unique needs, and nurturing it with care and love. By embracing the natural beauty of coily hair and providing it with the right care, we can help everyone feel confident and beautiful in their natural hair.

How to Care for Coily Hair

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Unfortunately, coily hair is prone to shrinkage, dryness, and tangling. These hair care tips below will help you manage and care for your coils.

1. Keep Your Tresses Hydrated

Your coily hair needs water from the scalp to the hair cuticles to feel refreshed and moisturized. Feel free to wash as often as necessary if your hair is drier.

One tip to keep it hydrated is putting water-based, leave-in cream on damp hair after washing. Add this to your hair care routine to have longer-lasting moisture in your hair.

2. Lock In Moisture

Besides hydrating the hair, ensure to lock in the moisture to keep your hair lush. The LOC method is a tried-and-tested technique to lock moisture in the strands. LOC, which stands for liquid, oil, and cream, refers to the sequence you need to apply hair care products.

Note that ‘liquid’ may be water or water-based leave-in cream. Use this method after washing and conditioning your hair.

3. Avoid Oily or Greasy Products

Although you need to moisturize your hair, it’s best to stay away from heavy, oily, and greasy products, as some may seal your hair and prevent moisture from penetrating.

Also, avoid using sulfate products since they strip the hair of its moisture. Meanwhile, treatments with silicones (those that end with ‘xane,’ ‘cone,’ and ‘onol’) can cause product build-up on the scalp since they’re not water-soluble.

Other ingredients to avoid include mineral oils, waxes, isopropyl alcohol, and denatured alcohol—all of these dry out coily hair.

4. Use Shampoo Occasionally

Regardless if you’re using a sulfate-free shampoo, coily heads should refrain from using shampoo regularly, as they can strip the natural oils off your strands.

Instead, use a rinse-out conditioner with deep conditioning after washing to hydrate and moisturize your coily hair. Consider using a hair treatment if you have intensely dry hair.

5. Trim as Needed

Don’t forget to trim your hair as needed. It’s easy for coily hair to have knots, tangles, and split ends. So, snipping the ends will keep it healthy.

However, avoid trimming your hair often or on a defined schedule since coily hair takes a long time to grow back. Also, get a stylist specializing in coily hair to avoid blunt lines or ends, unless you can trim well.

6. Protect Your Hair While Sleeping

Caring for your coily hair doesn’t stop when you sleep. One way to protect your tresses is to use a silk pillow or pillowcase to lessen the friction between your hair and the fabric. Another tip is to wrap your hair in a silk cloth to keep it moist throughout the night.

Proper hair care at night will keep your coils from getting more dry, tangled, and damaged, especially while sleeping.

7. Understand Your Hair

Each hair is different. So, it’s essential to check how your strands look and behave to know how to care for and style them. Consider looking at your hair’s porosity, density, and thickness.

Low porosity means your hair has difficulty absorbing and holding moisture. Meanwhile, dense hair may appear lush but is generally drier. Lastly, thick hair has a larger diameter per strand, resulting in stronger hair.

Knowing your hair textures will help you target your strands’ and scalp’s needs.

The Best Products for Coily Hair

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Choose hair products carefully, and consider adding these to your hair care routine as they can support your coils.

Hydrating or Moisturizing Oils

Some oils help hydrate hair and seal it in moisture. These include argan oil, coconut oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil, and grapeseed oil. Ideally, you want to use light oil.

However, avoid overusing them. Instead, apply oil depending on your hair’s texture and needs. If your hair needs a continuous supply of moisture, you may use it daily. Otherwise, use it as needed.

Hair Butter

Hair butter is a blend of organic oils and butter that seal moisture in the hair. It’s perfect for dry and fragile coily hair since it provides rich fatty acids that help build hair elasticity and reduce breakage.

Ideally, look for products with shea butter, which has anti-inflammatory properties that help moisturize hair and heal a damaged scalp.

Hair Mask or Hair Treatment

A hair treatment or mask works like a facial mask. It soaks the hair with a deep conditioner to hydrate and strengthen it.

It’s one of the best hair care products to invest in since it helps replenish your hair’s moisture. Use it once or twice weekly, depending on the product’s instructions.

Leave-in Conditioner

Leave-in conditioner is a conditioning treatment left in the hair to provide continuous moisture throughout the day.

It also helps minimize damage, especially when your coily hair is exposed to harsh external factors like sun exposure, humidity, dust, and dirt. However, avoid putting too much product as it can clog the scalp and cause nasty build-up.

Styling Tips for Coily Hair

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Here are ways to style coily hair without damaging it.

Style Coily Hair in a Protective Way

Putting your hair in protective styles will prevent damage and breakage as it dries throughout the day. These styles include buns, small braids, and twists. If you want a low-maintenance hairstyle, try mini twists, box braids, and lemonade braids.

However, avoid styling your hair often or too tightly, especially if you have fragile strands. Otherwise, it’ll lead to breakage and increased damage from over-manipulation.

Dry It Naturally

Naturally coily hair is prone to frizz, but letting it air-dry minimizes heat exposure and prevents frizz. Although a blow dryer or diffuser will dry your hair quickly and reduce frizz, it’s always better to dry your hair naturally.

If it’s taking too long for you to air-dry your hair, try styling it when it’s damp then applying your hair care product properly to dry it quicker.

Add More Volume

Embrace your coils and go for a big and bold look by adding more volume to your curls.

Try hanging your head upside down and scrunching your curls from the roots. Doing this creates volume and enhances your curls. Meanwhile, if you want bouncy hair, apply hair products lightly, especially at the crown.

Love Your Coils!

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If you’re a coily hair type, loving and maintaining your natural hair starts with the proper practices and products to moisturize, strengthen, and style it.

Once you start caring for your coils, you’ll enjoy effortless, voluminous, and gorgeous hair wherever you go.

Hopefully, this guide helped you learn how to treat your coils better. So, try our tips above and start rocking your natural curls!

Paulina Romain

Paulina Romain is an entrepreneur and artist in the beauty industry. She is the founder and owner of The Art of Ink Studio, where she provides services such as permanent cosmetics, microblading, and artistic ink, focusing on personalized body art. Additionally, she owns Mill Pond Salon, through which she aims to deliver big-city salon services in the comfort of a small town. Apart from her hands-on work in her studios, Paulina Romain is also active on social media platforms like TikTok, where she showcases her fine line and cosmetic tattoo work. Furthermore, she's been in the salon and beauty industry for over 14 years and operates Team True Beauty with Sam Romain. This platform includes a blog on various beauty-related topics and marks the opening of two beauty brands by the couple.

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